Repair on Smart Home? Sure — But Secure!

3 Smart Home fails: devices I would NOT buy today!

Sun, 25 Jan 2026 00:00:00 +0200

Imagine: you get up in the morning, want to raise the blind – and nothing happens. Try the app? Nothing. Try the physical switch directly? Dead. And here’s the kicker: the fault is buried deep inside a wall-mounted junction box.

That was the moment I realised: my smart home had just turned into a nightmare. And I’m not alone with experiences like this.

Today I’m showing you three devices that made it very clear to me where smart home can really go wrong. Not theoretical problems – but real fails that cost me time, money and nerves. We’re talking about 14 actuators all failing. A robot vacuum that became useless overnight. And false alarms waking me up in the middle of the night.

Watch the video – I demonstrate the problems live and show you what you can learn from them.

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Fail #1: Shelly 2.5 – When 14 actuators died at the same time

The slow death inside the wall

This is a Shelly 2.5 – an actuator for roller shutters and blinds. I have 14 of them installed. Fourteen! Nearly all in junction boxes, permanently wired behind wallpaper and plaster. My expectation was pretty clear: install once, close up, forget it. Set and forget.

On the software side I was happy for a long time: locally controllable, great Home Assistant integration, no cloud dependency. Exactly what you want.

And then the drama began.

The same defect – 14 times

In all – yes, literally all – of these Shelly 2.5 actuators, one component failed after some time, one by one. All fourteen, always the same defect. Morning routine, raise the blind? Nothing. App? Nothing. Physical switch? Dead.

Now here’s the real nightmare: these things are of course sitting in junction boxes. That means: open the wall, pull out the actuator, desolder the capacitor, solder in a new one, reinstall, close the wall. Per actuator. Fourteen times.

That was a genuine maintenance disaster for me. And I’m not alone. There are masses of reports about this Shelly generation online.

In the video I show you exactly what went wrong and how I carried out the repair. The detailed repair guide is in this separate article.

Small consolation: repair is possible

With a soldering iron you can swap the faulty component for a few cents in parts. But honestly: do you really want to open 14 wall boxes and replace capacitors?

Important note: this problem affects specifically the Shelly 2.5. The successors Shelly Plus 2PM and the Gen 3 and Gen 4 are ones I use heavily myself and have had zero failures with so far. So this isn’t about bashing the manufacturer across the board.

The key lesson

Wait for long-term community experience before buying new products. First generation? Let others be the testers. Second generation with solid reviews over a year? Then go ahead.

Fail #2: Shark robot vacuum – When the cloud kills your integration

From smart home star to useless appliance

The second device frustrated me in a completely different way. It’s about my Shark robot vacuum. And upfront: the hardware is perfectly fine. It vacuums well, navigates decently, does its job.

For months I had it deeply integrated into my smart home. Built automations along the lines of: “When nobody’s home, start cleaning.” The Home Assistant integration ran perfectly. This wasn’t a toy – it was a solid, reliable part of my daily routine.

Watch in the video how well the system worked – before everything fell apart.

One app update. One dead integration.

And then, one morning: automation triggers – nothing happens. Home Assistant shows: connection lost. Maybe a bug? Open the app – it works. Robot starts via app. But the Home Assistant integration? Dead. Still dead weeks later. Permanently.

What happened? The Shark app had updated itself automatically – as apps do. Completely normal, in the background. Without me actively deciding anything or consciously triggering it.

But with this update, something had changed in the cloud interface. The result: the Home Assistant integration was broken. No workaround, no fallback, no local API.

The moment of realisation

That was the moment I understood: I didn’t buy a device I’m in control of. I bought a device whose capabilities can change at any time via a server update. Without my consent. Without warning. And I can do nothing about it.

In the video I explain in depth why this is a fundamental problem with many cloud-dependent devices.

Imagine buying a car – and a year later the manufacturer says: “Sorry, the radio only works with our app now.” That’s exactly what happened here. Except that the “radio” in my case was the entire smart home integration.

The lesson: an exit strategy is mandatory

Cloud is convenient – but you always need an exit strategy.

Is there a local API?
Can I flash alternative firmware?
Does the device work without internet?

Bose recently handed us a similar case. If that interests you, here’s the article about Bose SoundTouch.

Fail #3: Sonoff Zigbee motion sensor – The night-time false alarms

Bought cheap, paid dearly

The third device looks harmless at first glance: a Sonoff Zigbee motion sensor. Cheap, bought 10 of them, quickly integrated, classic use case for lighting automations.

And at first I thought: okay, maybe a bit sensitive. Adjust the calibration, reduce the range, tried everything.

But then reality hit:

The night-time horror

Middle of the night – light comes on. I wake up, fall back asleep. Half an hour later: again. Three, four times per night. After two weeks I was nearly going mad.

I first thought: a bug in my automation. Checked all the logs. But no: the sensor is genuinely reporting motion. Where there isn’t any.

Same during the day. Light comes on when nobody’s in the room. Shadow from outside? Reflection? An insect on the sensor? No idea. But it doesn’t matter – because the result is the same: the system isn’t reliable.

In the video I demonstrate what these false triggers feel like and what impact they have on your trust in the system.

Unreliability is the death of any automation

In my view, this is the death of any automation. Because sooner or later you start disabling automations. Deactivating sensors. You lose trust in the system.

I replaced these sensors consistently with Aqara motion sensors. More discreet, significantly more reliable – and suddenly the system works. No more false triggers. No more waking up at night. Just: it works.

Not a brand problem, but a product problem

Important: this isn’t a general Sonoff problem. I use plenty of other Sonoff devices myself – Sonoff Basic or S20 plug switches for example – flashed with Tasmota. Local, no cloud, rock-solid for years. Except once, a capacitor issue there too – but that stayed a one-off.

The motion sensor is therefore a specific product problem, not a brand problem.

The lesson: test first, then scale up

Test sensors in everyday use before buying ten of them. One sensor for €10 is cheap – but ten faulty sensors are €100 of e-waste.

Unreliable sensors cannot be “optimised”. No tuning, no configuration makes a bad sensor good. Replacing them decisively is the only solution.

Three golden rules for your smart home purchases

From these three fails I’ve developed three rules I explain in detail in the video:

Rule 1: Have an exit strategy

Ask yourself:

Is there a local API?
Can I flash alternative firmware?
Does the device work without internet?

If all the answers are “no” – think very carefully before buying.

Rule 2: Wait for community experience

Wait for long-term reviews. Read user reports. Only install critical actuators where you can reach them again if needed. So junction boxes only with absolutely proven hardware.

Rule 3: Test sensors thoroughly

Testing one sensor in real life for two weeks might cost you €10. Test first, then buy. Not the other way around.

The opposite: the best devices

If you want, in the next video I’ll do exactly the opposite: Three devices that have run absolutely reliably for years. That I would buy again immediately. That cost me zero maintenance.

Watch the video and write “YES” in the comments if that interests you!

Or do you have a smart home device you could throw against the wall? What was your biggest fail? I’m looking forward to your stories in the comments!

Replace Your Tablet Battery Yourself – How to Save Your Old Device in 20 Minutes!

Sun, 16 Nov 2025 00:00:00 +0000

When Your Tablet Never Leaves the Charger

Sound familiar? Your tablet used to be great, but now the battery barely lasts a few hours. Maybe you use it for your Smart Home Dashboard in Home Assistant or for other purposes – but being permanently tethered to a cable is simply annoying.

Most people think: “Time for a new device.” But wait! These devices are far too good to throw away. In this article I’ll show you how to breathe new life into your tablet with a new battery – and without any special tools!

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Why Repair It Yourself?

Sustainability and Resource Conservation

Every repaired device is a win for the environment. Manufacturing a new tablet consumes enormous resources – raw materials, energy, water. A new battery for €20–30 and 20 minutes of your time can extend the device’s life by years.

Save Money

A new tablet can easily cost several hundred euros. A replacement battery? About €20–30. The math is simple!

It’s Fun!

Honestly: there’s a really great feeling when the device works again after the repair. In the video you can watch every step live alongside me!

My Example: Samsung Galaxy Tab S3

For my Smart Home Dashboard I use a Samsung Galaxy Tab S3. It’s a bit older, but still perfect for Home Assistant. The battery, however, was completely done – the tablet only lasted a few hours.

Spoiler: After the battery replacement it now runs for a whole week again! 🎉

What You Need

Tools (no special equipment!)

Hair dryer (yes, really – your regular hair dryer!)
Suction cup or suction cup clamp (available at any hardware store)
Plastic spatula or an old credit/loyalty card
Small screwdriver (Phillips head)
Optional: Plastic opening tools (available online for a few euros)

Materials

Replacement battery matching your tablet model
Optional: Replacement adhesive strips for the housing

Important note on buying the battery:

⚠️ Do NOT buy the cheapest battery you find online!

Make sure to look for:

✅ Reputable distributors
✅ Good ratings and reviews
✅ Brand manufacturers or certified replacements

Why? Low-quality lithium-ion batteries don’t just perform poorly – in the worst case they can catch fire. Safety first! I cover this in detail in the video.

Step-by-Step Guide

Step 1: Warm Up the Housing with the Hair Dryer

The first step is heating the adhesive between the housing and the display. Without this step you won’t be able to get into the device.

My recommendation:

Lowest airflow setting
Maximum heat
About 2 minutes warming the entire housing
One corner more intensively (that’s where you want to open it first)

Temperature check: If you can just barely touch the tablet without burning yourself, it’s perfect!

In the video you can see exactly how long I hold the hair dryer and how!

Step 2: Open the Housing with a Suction Cup

Now comes the exciting part. Using a suction cup or suction cup clamp you carefully pull the housing apart.

Two options:

Option A: Suction cup clamp (the one I use)

Place it on the warmed corner
Carefully tighten until a gap appears
No force – just warm it up again if needed!

Option B: Two simple suction cups

One on the front, one on the back
Carefully pull apart with your hands
Again: patience matters more than strength

You’ll see in the video: In my case the housing pops open after just a few turns!

Step 3: Fully Open the Housing

Once the first gap appears, grab a plastic spatula or an old credit card.

Important:

⚠️ Do NOT use metal tools!
✅ Plastic only – that way you won’t scratch anything
✅ Don’t go too deep into the device
✅ Work your way completely around the device

If it doesn’t slide smoothly somewhere? Just warm up that spot with the hair dryer again. In the video I show you the right technique!

Step 4: Watch Out for Cables!

On my Samsung tablet: The back panel has no cabling – just lift it off.

On other tablets: Carefully check whether ribbon cables connect the back panel to the circuit board! Otherwise you’ll tear something off when opening it.

Step 5: Remove the Battery

Now it gets technical – but don’t worry, it’s easier than it looks!

On my tablet:

Loosen a few screws securing the battery
Carefully disconnect the ribbon cable
Gently lift the contact clips with a small screwdriver
Pull out the cable

In the video you can see every single step in close-up – I show you exactly where each cable sits!

Step 6: Remove the Old Battery

The battery is usually still secured with some adhesive tape. Carefully lift it and remove it from the housing.

Note: Don’t just throw the old battery in the trash! Batteries belong at the recycling center or at the collection point in an electronics store.

Step 7: Install the New Battery

The new battery goes in exactly the same spot.

Connection order:

Place the battery in the housing
Reconnect the ribbon cable
Press the contacts firmly
Screw the screws back in

In the video I show you what to pay attention to when connecting the cables!

Step 8: Function Test BEFORE Closing!

Important: Test that everything works BEFORE you close the housing!

What I test:

✅ Tablet can be switched on
✅ Display works
✅ Buttons respond
✅ Speakers work
✅ Battery charges (plug in the charging cable!)

In the video you’ll see the exciting moment: Does it turn on? 😊

Step 9: Calibrate the Battery

Before closing the housing, it’s a good idea to:

Charge the battery fully (100%)
Let the tablet drain completely without charging in between

Why? This way the operating system learns the actual capacity and can display accurate remaining runtime again.

Step 10: Close the Housing

Now comes the final step!

Option A: Use the remaining adhesion (what I do)

The old adhesive often still holds well enough
Simply press the back panel on and you’re done
⚠️ The device is then no longer waterproof

Option B: New adhesive strip

Remove the old adhesive
Apply a new adhesive strip (order it together with the battery!)
Good sealing again

For my Smart Home Dashboard, Option A is perfectly sufficient!

The Result: Mission Accomplished! 🎉

In just 20 minutes: My Samsung Tab runs for a whole week again, just from a new battery!

The tablet is back to being:

✅ Usable permanently as a dashboard
✅ Usable without constant recharging
✅ Ready for years more of service

Common Problems and Solutions

“The housing won’t open”

Solution: Heat it up again! Better to use the hair dryer for 30 seconds longer than to use force.

“I’m afraid of breaking something”

Solution: In the video you can see every move. Take your time and work calmly. Most damage happens from rushing!

“Which battery is the right one?”

Solution:

The exact model number is printed on the old battery
Search for that number at reputable shops
Read the reviews!

“The cable won’t connect”

Solution: Some connectors are a bit fiddly. In the video I show you how I handled the tricky connector on mine – it took me a while too!

Safety Notes

During the Repair

⚠️ Never work while connected to power!
⚠️ Do not damage the battery (risk of short circuit/fire!)
⚠️ Choose a well-ventilated room
⚠️ Keep children and pets away

After the Repair

✅ Supervise the first charging cycle
✅ The tablet getting warm is normal
✅ If you see smoke, disconnect from power immediately!

Why This Fits Perfectly with “Using Tech Smartly”

This channel is called “Smart Home? But Secure!” for a reason – and smart means:

Conserving resources instead of throwing things away
Taking action yourself instead of buying everything new
Understanding and mastering technology

A repaired tablet for a Smart Home Dashboard is the perfect example: Old meets Smart!

Your Repair Project?

Write to me in the comments:

Have you ever replaced a tablet or smartphone battery yourself?
What was your experience?
Do you also use your tablet for Smart Home?
Which device are you considering repairing?

Make sure to watch the video – there you can see every step live and get all the important tips!

More Repair Guides

Repair BROKEN Shellys – the 30 CENT repair that actually works! – Repair Smart Home hardware instead of throwing it away: save a Shelly 2.5 with a new capacitor
Repair Sonoff S20 Smart Plug – the 26 Cent Repair – Permanently fix the unstable WiFi connection on the Sonoff S20 with a capacitor replacement

Repairing BROKEN Shellys – the 30 CENT Fix That Actually Works!

Sun, 21 Sep 2025 00:00:00 +0200

Is your Shelly 2.5 humming? Making strange noises or constantly dropping the Wi-Fi connection? Then you are probably familiar with the frustrating problem that many Shelly owners face: after a few years, these devices become increasingly unreliable.

What looks like a Wi-Fi problem at first usually has a completely different cause. The good news: in most cases you can fix it yourself with a 50-cent repair!

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The Problem: When Shellys Get Old

Recognizing the Typical Symptoms

Shelly 2.5 devices of the first generation in particular show characteristic problems after a few years:

Strange noises: Humming or buzzing from the device
Unstable Wi-Fi connection: Sporadic disconnects
Unreliable operation: Commands are not executed
Complete failure: The device stops responding entirely

In the video I demonstrate the characteristic sound — if your Shelly sounds like that, there is a good chance this repair will help!

The Root Cause: Capacitor Aging

What many people do not know: the problem is usually not the ESP8266 chip or the antenna, but a tiny electrolytic capacitor in the power supply. After years of use, it loses its electrical properties and destabilizes the entire power circuit.

The tricky part: the capacitor looks completely normal from the outside — no bulging, no visible damage.

The 50-Cent Repair, Step by Step

What You Need

100µF/16V electrolytic capacitor (approx. 50 cents)
Soldering iron and solder
Narrow flat-head screwdriver
Some patience and care

Important safety note: Never work on the Shelly while it is connected to mains power!

Opening the Case — the Flat-Head Screwdriver Trick

Opening the Shelly 2.5 is a little tricky, but perfectly doable with the right approach. In the video I show you exactly:

Where to insert the flat-head screwdriver
How to carefully pry off the casing
What to watch out for with the delicate tabs

The trick is to work systematically along the sides without applying too much force.

Identifying the Faulty Capacitor

Once opened, you can see the compact circuit board with all its components. The problematic capacitor is the small black cylinder marked “100µF 16V”. In the video I explain exactly:

Where the capacitor is located
How to distinguish it from other components
What other capacitors are present on the board

Removing the Faulty Capacitor

Desoldering requires some skill, but is very manageable with the right technique. I show you in the video:

How to carefully tilt the capacitor out
The correct soldering iron technique
How to clear the holes after removal

Particularly important: the capacitor sits on the outer edge of the board and is therefore relatively easy to reach.

Installing the New Capacitor Correctly

With electrolytic capacitors, polarity is critical:

Negative pole: Marked with a broad stripe on the casing
Positive pole: The longer lead

In the video I show in detail how to correctly identify the polarity and orient the capacitor. Getting this wrong would destroy the entire device!

Reassembling the Case

When reassembling, make sure to route the Wi-Fi antenna correctly. There is a dedicated notch in the case for it — the video shows you exactly how this works.

The Success Test — Live in the Video

The most exciting moment: switching it on for the first time after the repair! In the video you can watch live:

How the repaired Shelly boots up
Testing the web interface
Checking the relay function
And most importantly: the listening test reveals complete silence!

After a successful repair, the Shelly will run reliably for years to come.

Other Affected Shelly Models

The capacitor problem is not limited to the Shelly 2.5. Other models can be affected as well:

Shelly Dimmer (first generation)
Shelly 3EM (older versions)
Other first-generation Shellys

The repair principle remains the same — only the exact capacitor type may vary.

Why the Repair Is Worth It

Sustainability over the Throwaway Mindset

Instead of discarding working hardware and buying new devices, you invest 15 minutes and 50 cents in materials. That is:

Environmentally friendly: Less electronic waste
Cost-saving: A new Shelly 2.5 costs over 20 euros
Educational: You understand your hardware better

Long-Term Reliability

After the capacitor repair, the Shellys work like new again:

Stable Wi-Fi connection
No more strange noises
Reliable response to commands
Years of further trouble-free use

Practical Tips for the Future

Preventive Measures

Electrolytic capacitors age faster due to:

Heat: Avoid excessively warm installation locations
Moisture: Ensure a dry environment
Overvoltage: Use surge protection

When Is a Repair Worth Attempting?

The repair is most promising for:

Devices older than 2–3 years
Typical noise problems
Sporadic Wi-Fi dropouts
Devices that are still partially functional

More Hardware Repairs

This repair impressively demonstrates that smart home can be sustainable! The video shows not just the practical implementation, but also my thought process during troubleshooting.

More Repair Guides

Repairing a Sonoff S20 Smart Plug – the 26-Cent Fix – The same capacitor problem, different device: fixing Wi-Fi disconnects on the Sonoff S20
Replacing a Tablet Battery Yourself – Save Your Old Device in 20 Minutes! – When the tablet used as a smart home dashboard only works while plugged in

Note: Links marked with affiliate link are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This means I receive a small commission if you purchase through these links — at no extra cost to you. The revenue helps me run this blog and YouTube channel and keep creating content. Thank you for your support!
― Joachim

Repairing the Sonoff S20 Smart Plug: The 26-Cent Fix

Sun, 07 Sep 2025 00:00:00 +0200

Sound familiar? Your Sonoff S20 smart plugs worked reliably for years, but suddenly they keep dropping their WiFi connection. A restart fixes things — for a few hours. Then the same thing happens all over again. You simply can’t build a reliable smart home on devices like that.

The good news: in most cases you can fix the problem yourself for under a dollar in parts. The secret lies in a tiny component that loses its electrical properties after a few years.

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The Common Problem: Unstable WiFi Connection

Recognizing the Symptoms

The problem tends to show up in a very characteristic way:

The Sonoff S20 sporadically drops its WiFi connection
After a restart everything works again for minutes to hours
The device stops responding to commands from the app
The LED blinks irregularly or shows error states

The Root Cause: Capacitor Aging

What looks like a WiFi problem at first glance actually originates in the plug’s power supply. After some research it became clear: the electrolytic capacitors used in these devices lose their rated parameters after a few years.

This causes instability throughout the entire power supply circuit — instability that the ESP8266 microcontroller cannot handle. In the worst case the device eventually dies completely.

The $1 Repair: Step by Step

What You Need

One 330µF/16V electrolytic capacitor
A soldering iron and some solder
A Phillips screwdriver
Desoldering braid (helpful but optional)
Common sense when it comes to safety

Important safety notice: Never work on the plug while it is connected to mains power!

Opening the Case

The Sonoff S20 is surprisingly easy to open. Remove four Phillips screws and you have access to the circuit board. The video shows you step by step exactly where the screws are located and how to open the case safely without damaging anything.

Identifying the Culprit

The problematic capacitors are easy to spot. They are the electrolytic capacitors in the power supply area of the board. The main suspect is the 330µF/16V capacitor located between two IC chips.

The tricky part: these capacitors look completely normal from the outside. No bulging, no visible damage — yet they are faulty. The video shows you exactly where to find the suspect capacitors and how to tell them apart from other components.

Removing the Faulty Capacitor

To replace the capacitor you need to partially loosen the board so you can reach the solder joints from the back. The relevant contacts sit between the two chips and need to be carefully desoldered.

The video shows the soldering iron work live, including tips for avoiding damage to the board. Clearing the holes after removing the old capacitor is covered in detail — that is the trickiest part of the whole repair.

Installing the New Capacitor

When inserting the new 330µF/16V electrolytic capacitor, polarity is critical:

Negative lead: Marked with a thick stripe
Positive lead: The other side (longer leg)

The board markings show you exactly which way the capacitor goes. Positive on top, negative on the bottom — following the markings on the board. The video demonstrates slowly and clearly how to identify the correct polarity and align the capacitor properly. Getting this wrong would destroy the entire power supply!

Reassembly

When reassembling, pay close attention to the correct positioning of the button. The small transparent plastic piece must sit precisely on its pins, otherwise the manual button will no longer work.

Also make sure the cables are routed so they do not conflict with the socket contacts. The video shows the small but important trick with the button — miss it and you will regret it later!

The Moment of Truth

After screwing everything back together comes the exciting part: the first power-up. If everything was done correctly, the LED starts blinking happily and the plug connects to the WiFi without any trouble.

The video shows the successful result live: the repaired Sonoff S20 is fully reachable at its IP address and switches flawlessly — something that was not possible before. That moment is genuinely satisfying and proves the effort was worth it.

Why the Repair Is Worth It

Sustainability Over Throwaway Culture

Instead of throwing away the “broken” plug and buying a new one, you invest about 30 minutes of time and under a dollar in parts. That is not only sustainable — it is also educational.

Other Affected Components

If replacing the first capacitor does not solve the problem, the other electrolytic capacitors in the circuit may also be affected. The repair principle stays the same.

Long-Term Stability

After the repair the plugs work perfectly again. The WiFi connection is stable, response times are fast, and reliability is back to its original level.

Practical Tips for the Future

Prevention

Electrolytic capacitors age due to heat and operating time. Avoid placing your Sonoff devices in excessively warm environments and ensure adequate ventilation.

When Is a Repair Worth It?

For devices older than 2–3 years that show the WiFi problems described above, a faulty capacitor is very likely the cause. The repair is usually successful and only takes a few minutes.

More Hardware Repair Projects Ahead

This repair shows impressively how sustainable smart home can be. Instead of discarding working hardware, we fix it with minimal effort. The best part: the video shows not just the repair itself but also the reasoning behind it — what to look for when diagnosing the fault and which pitfalls to avoid.

More Repair Guides

Fixing BROKEN Shellys – The 30-Cent Repair That Actually Works! – The same capacitor principle applied to the Shelly 2.5: solving WiFi problems with a new capacitor
Replace a Tablet Battery Yourself – Save Your Old Device in 20 Minutes! – When your old tablet needs to last hours instead of minutes as a smart home dashboard again

Note: Links marked with affiliate link are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This means I receive a small commission if you purchase through these links — at no extra cost to you. The revenue helps me run this blog and YouTube channel and keep creating content. Thank you for your support!
― Joachim